Cold Fronts and Swimming Pigs?

I am writing this post as we sit out yet another cold front.  This time we are at anchor at Black Point, Great Guana Cay.

This is located just a few miles south of Staniel Cay - home of the swimming pigs.  For our real-time location, please check out:
https://share.garmin.com/Midnightsunii  I think I will out a link to this on the side bar of this page.

This past week of so, we had a lot of fun with our sailing friends Brian and Patrick.  If you have seen any of our video, Patrick is responsible for the "It doesn't get any better than this!" clip, featured in many of my video!  http://www.midnightsunii.com/videos---cruises.html

We picked up Brian and Patrick in Emerald Bay.  Similarly, TraSea picked up Zach.  After sitting out a cold front - yes notice there is a pattern to all of this.......we set off north to see some of the local sights.

Wanting to visit Staniel Cay, we elected to stay on the dock there for a night.  This turned out to be a poor decision.  Although its a great location, the docks are high and pretty exposed to weather, facilities are slim, and the price is high.  And to top it off, the dock hand gave me bad directions as to where to dock resulting in Midnight Sun running aground.  No Boat US or SeaTow...and a falling tide called for some quick action.  Even with full reverse and bow thruster running the wind was holding us in shallow water.  one of the dock hands got in a fast boat and tried to pull us off - no joy; so we asked him to push our bow around.  He wanted to lean us with a halyard, but since we have a wing keel, I know this can just tend to dig us in further.  The push on the bow with revers and thruster worked thankfully and we made it back to the dock.  Anti-grounding rum failed me this time.  I did have one, but just put it down to not having enough!

Anway, we spent the evening at Staniel Cay and were able to get some provisions.  The following day we moved to a mooring ball located right adjacent to Thunderball Grotto - a spectacular cavern inside a rock that you snorkel into.  This was featured in the 007 Movie "Thunderball" - as the name suggests.  Inside, we saw spectacular fish and were able to feed them breadcrumbs and grapes.

Swimming in Thunderball Grotto

Now if I can get some stills from me GoPro, I will add a few here [post edit - photos added].  I got some great footage for the next movie........but that always seems to take a long time to get together.  If these cold fronts keep up, maybe I will get motivated to work on it sooner!

Looking up - Thunderball Grotto

Pig Beach - Big Major's Spot

From Thunderball, we moved the short distance to Big Major's spot.  There is a large anchorage there.  On the south end of this anchorage is the famous "pig beach" - home of the swimming pigs.  A little further north is a quaint little beach with picnic benches and decorations that i think has been built by cruisers.  We anchored fairly close to this as it made a good landing spot for Salty.  Further north is Fowl Cay and a resort are that can be easily accessed by dinghy.  We didn't venture there on this stop - but it looked nice and that likely translates to "expensive".......but i am sure we will check it out while we are in the neighborhood.

Yes - they do swim for food!

So after a few days of play, it was unfortunately time to start making our way back towards Georgetown in time for our guests to depart.  On our return, we elected once again to stop at Little Farmer's Cay.  We wanted to explore Oven Rock, located just north of Little Farmers.  We had stopped and explored tha actual rock on the way up, but were disappointed as we had heard of a cave....but we had not done sufficient research.

We thought this was the entrance to the cave.........but it is not.  The way to the cave involves walking anout 1/4 mile north up the beach, finding a trail that heads inland another 1/4 mile or so (marked by some stone mounds and a white marker)....and then voila!

Oven Rock Entrance

The cave entrance itself is spectacular and fairly well hidden by overgrowth.  But once you find it access is easy and safe.  I understand that you can scuba 700 feet back into the cave.....but not me!  I was happy to explore on foot.  We had taken headlamps so were able to access back probably 150 ft or so and yes, it was well worth the short hike over the gnarly coral path.

Stalegmites?

Rock Pool

Some of the rock formations were quite amazing.......and Salty found a source for a quick drink of fresh water!  Whoever had left that bucket there did it quite some time ago based on the lime formations in it.....but the water was fresh.

Cool looking secluded beach on the Atlantic Side

So after a day of caving - time to head back to Little Farmers.  This time we ate at the Yacht Club....but it was not as good as Ocean Cabin by a long measure.

After dropping off our guests, and another night in Emerald Bay, we headed north seeking shelter for the next cold front.  This time Black Point........and a day at the beach before hunkering down.

Down in Da Exumas Man!

From Chubb Cay, we crossed the Exuma Bank avoiding the yellow bank and white bank.  In fact leaving from the west side of Nassau gives a much cleaner shot at the Exumas - so I will remember that one. 

Nassau West End

From Chubb, we went to Highborne Cay - perhaps one of the few Cays in the northern Exumas that has any facilities.  We found what we thought was a great anchorage just north of Highborne Cay marina.  It had pretty good wind shelter, but the rollers were coming in as remnants of the earlier north winds.  And they didn't subside over night.  It was a rolly one......very much so.  things flew around the boat all night and not much sleep was had.  Worst thing - Salty had to go ashore.  So pitch dark, driving rain, big ass rollers and off we went to a beach we had not been to before.  Not a very good idea from a safety perspective - but I love the little guy and well; the things we do for our four-legged friends.  I carried my VHF so I could tell friends if we had a problem.  But we accomplished the mission.

The next day.....well the girls had had enough of rolling, so we we went over to Highborne marina.  Of course the seas settled.......so well, we just paid the marina and had a good time.  We will just wait for the credit card bill.

From Highborne, we moved on to the Exumas Land and Sea Park; an absolutely awesome place.  We just love that place, but we were now on a critical schedule to pick up friends from the airport in Georgetown, so we stayed the night and moved on.  We will be heading back up this way soon to get photos and relax.  Our next stop was Little Farmers Cay. Remembering the best lobster we have had, we once again dined at Ocean Cabin where proprietors Terry and Ernestine Bain once again  made us feel welcome and yet again.........the best Bahamian Lobster EVER!  Again, it was a quick stop overnight as we were now a day away from friends arriving in Georgetown.  With an early start and reasonable (not great) weather conditions, we made the hop into the Atlantic through Farmers Cay Cut and down to Emerald Bay Marina.  Its about a 30 mile jump, but can be very weather dependant.  First, conditions have to be OK to get out of the narrow cut into the Atlantic.  At the wrong tide, and especially with wind against tide, rage conditions can occur.  Second, since we were in the open Atlantic, sea conditions need to be at least OK.  For this trip they were OK - not the best as we had to motor with big rollers.  And Third, you need conditions to be favourable to get into Emerald Bay Marina.  Under the wrong conditions, there can be big rollers in the marina entrance.

Well - we made it.  As we tied up the boats, our guest's taxi arrived bringing them from Georgetown Airport.  Talk about "just in time delivery!"

As predicted, we had a cold front on our heels, and while we were safe in the marina, we were essentially trapped until it passed.  Three days.  But as you can see, there are plenty of wort places to be trapped for a few days!  The marina is nice.  Prices reasonable (for the Bahamas) $2.25 per foot per day for a serviced dock and $1 per foot for a slip with no power or water (3 day min).

Next door is the Grand Isle Resort with a nice restaurant, bar and pool.  And a short walk down the beach is Sandals, Exumas.

 You can purchase a day pass to Sandals from the Marina....or you can simply walk by and take in the sights!

While we were ar Emerald Bay, we rented a car so that we could take a trip into Georgetown and generally re-provision.  It was good to be on land a little while, although we know that our guests were anxious to see something other than a marina.  But sometimes, the weather just dictates.....and it is what it is.

In my next post, we visit the swimming pigs, Thunderball Grotto, and Oven Rock.  Stay tuned......the weather has us pinned today (Jan 26, 2018), so maybe I will get caught up!

So we got our Butts Kicked!

Moving on....next stop....er well where is our next stop?  We had planned to go from Chub Cay to Spanish Wells but we are doing something we vowed to avoid.  We are on a schedule as we are picking up friends for a week in Georgetown, Exumas  Sure - a couple of months ago getting to Georgetown by January 13 was not an issue.  But with the weather we have had, we lost a day here a day there...then several days in Bimini.  And here we are on a schedule to get to Georgetown by Saturday.  So looking at how we can shave off a day here and there.  The best option looks like Nassau.  Damn - we didn't want to go there, but from Nassau we can make it to the northern Exumas then work our way south.

So Nassau it is.  Should be fine.  Only 35 miles - forecast 15-20 on the beam.  Hmm, I prefer a forecast of 10-15.......but its only 35 miles.  How bad can it get?

So the wind is supposed to build in the afternoon - lets make an early start.  We push off at 6:30am.  Wind a little fresh, 15 or so on the beam.  We sail full main, reefed jib.  Making 8 kts, waves are a bit rolly, but life is good. Then we get out of the lee of Chub Cay.  Winds build a bit, waves start to grow - we have made 10 miles, only 25 to go.  Winds build, waves grow.  Time to pull in the jib.  Another hour  crap, time to reef the main.  Don't you just know that when you finally submit to reefing the main, you are actually 30 minutes late doing it?  Of course we were - we were starting to round up in gusts and as we rounded up our rear quarter was being hit by one of those 10 ft waves.  it got quite uncomfortable quickly.  I have seen 10 ft waves many times, but these were literally at 2 seconds period, with te bigger ones always coming in pairs.  Yes - this is literally getting your butt kicked!  We hung on for the next 3 hours and took Mr. Toads wild ride.

As we approached the west end of Nassau, we decided to swing wide and get on a lee shore to drop sails.  Then we came back into it and worked our way into West Bay. 

West Bay Anchrage

Getting in there was a rolly ride, but we were glad to see the anchorage.  its funny how folks describe the story differently....I think Larry posted on facebook "Made it to Nassau - good sail".  I recall Janet saying, "if you want to do that again - I'm flying".

But - the sunset was magnificent!  and, although I didn't want to visit Nassau, I have to say this is a very nice anchorage.  The shoreline is a gated community, but we have not had a problem getting on the beach with Salty.

Salty likes the beach, but did not like the sail over here - he spent it hibernating in the bathroom! and was well ready to get his paws on shore!

Pushing on through the Bahamas - Bimini to Chub Cay

So, after six days (5 nights) in Bimini, its time to move on.  We arrived the day before New Year's eve, and while we planned to stay for NY, the weather kept us here with 30+ kt winds.

Santa's Seaplane

A few boats tried to leave - the wise ones turned back.  Austin was scheduled to travel back to Miami on the 3 rd, but the seaplanes and the fast ferry were grounded, so he was delayed a day, but got out on the 4th via seaplane to Ft. Lauderdale, then  got a ride to Miami and a flight to Atlanta - long days of travel!

We heard a few storm stories locally - not sure how true they were, but the small oil tanker bringing fuel to Bimini did ground attempting to come in to port, they got off and held offshore until it could come in.  We also heard a cruise ship in Freeport ahad broken free of moorings - but I could not substantiate this.

Austin's seaplane trip to Ft Lauderdale

Before we left Bimini, new friends on their cat decided to complete the re-naming process with a re-naming ceremony.  Her new name was "Good Karma" - apparently they had had a string of breakages  after renaming the boat, but had not performed the re-naming ceremony.

So of course, we helped with a champagne toast to the new boat name "Good Karma" and wished them luck for the future.  Good Karma is also headed to Chub Cay next..........so let's hope that Poseidon looks on them favorably!

Re-naming ceremony for "Good Karma"

January 5 -  Bimini to Chub Cay

We left late afternoon seeing a marginal break in the weather to head for Chub Cay.  We were out of the channel by 4pm and headed around the top (north) side of Bimini before crossing the Bahama Bank to Chub Cay.  It started out a great sail, but as we shifted course the wids came off the bow giving us a close haul in 15-20 with building seas.  Electing comfort over pureist sailing, we first reefed the jib.......sailed on more......but as it became less comfortable, we rolled is up and motor-sailed with main only.  We still arrived early - 6am and we were almost there.  We cut the motor to slow down and arrived at 7am as the marina was opening up and the sun was rising.  We are moving farther south.....little by little.  Actually this was more east in order to get south.

Chub Cay

Arriving in Bimini, the 3 boats chose different options - Midnight Sun and Navigo took the marina at $3/ft, and TraSea elected to take the anchorage.  Midnight Sun had a dog in need of land, and excess laundry. Navigo has a water tank/heater issue, and laundry needs.  So now we are watching the building winds as another front rolls through.  At $3/ft we are not staying and the plan is to leave early tomorrow - likely with sporty 15-20 winds and try to make the 30 mile hop to Nassau.  Not our first choice, but we are trying to get south to pick up friends and guests on Saturday from Georgetown and days are slipping away.

Salty stretches his legs at Chub Cay

So we will see how it goes tomorrow - the plan (always flexible) is to sail to the west end of Nassau and anchor in West Bay.  We will likely be there until Tuesday to ride out this next front.  We shall see how it goes!

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Winter Storm in Bahamas!

The local Bahamians are cold!  We are currently in Bimini held up by the winter storm that has hit the East Coast US and reached down to Miami and the Bahamas!

We are safely tied up at a dock in Bimini, but the seas in the ocean just outside the entrance and the winds have been pretty wild the last couple of days.  We monitored winds well into the 30+ knots last night, adn temperatures are down in the 60s.  Brrr - its time to get south, but we are watching the weather closely for a window to leave -   possibly tomorrow afternoon/evening - but we will see.  That may not be long enough to let the angry seas subside.  So its time to just be a bit patient!  I finally got photos to upload - but a photo of the ocean just never does it justice!

I am struggling with "slow internet" and photos will not load to the blog.......but if I remember, I will go back and add photos when they will download. All is well - just cold and windy!

More later!

Happy New Year from Bimini, Bahamas - 2018

Yes, we have made it to Bimini in the Bahamas.  We arrived December 30, just in time for NYE.  A quick recap from where we left off, then a little about Bimini.  I think we were in Naples, FL at the end of my last post.  From Naples, we went to Marco island, staying at the Yacht Club (another free night and another plug for joining a FCYC yacht club).

The Crew at Marco island YC

From Marco, our next stop was a big more challenging.  We were headed for Marathon so that we could cut off Key West, but this was a bit far for a day sail.  Also, crossing Florida Bay, we wanted daylight due to the crab pots, shallow water, and unknown possible issues from storm damage.  So we elected a stop at Little Shark River in the Everglades NP.

As we got close, we realized we were only seeing mangroves, and we needed to get Salty on shore.  So we went a little farther south, still in daylight to Cape Sable, where we found plenty of beach access. 

Yes, I am sure it was against park rules to take Salty, but oh well - a dog has to go.  We were careful not to disturb anything.......like alligators and freshwater crocs.  While we didn't see any, it was obvious that they were there from some of the tracks we saw on the beach..Cape Sable is a spectacularly unspoiled spot - except for the remnants of crab pots and other fishing debris from the recent storms that have been washed up on the beach.

Victims of Hurricane Irma

After 2 nights at Cape Sable - OK, Larry figured the tides wrong and got stuck!.......after 2 nights, we left and headed for Marathon.  We arrived Marathon, Boot Key on Christmas Eve.  Marathon has done a great job of recovering after the hurricane damage and is back in near full operation.  Great job Boot Key!.  Now, you either love or hate Boot Key.  Yes, its a great cruiser facility and community adn for a couple of days, its a good place to hang and get caught up shopping, provisions, laundry etc.  Then you realize that its a bit like an RV/TRailer Park on the water.  I am  sure others will disagree with me on that, bit its just the way I felt. 

We met some great cruiser folks that were generally heading our way.  An English couple (hi Hatty and Phil) who were on their way to Cuba.  It was sad to see the damage that had been done to many boats.  Most of the sunken boats had been removed, but still many damaged in the mooring field.

We had our Christmas in Boot Key, and it was good to spend time with other cruisers, but we were then ready to be on our way as we saw a slight weather window for a crossing.  Not ideal with winds from the north, but only at 10-15.  We headed north to Rodriguez Key to see if we cold cross.

December 30, 4:30 am, we left Rodriguez Key in the dark.  a little anxious about what the gulf stream would be like with winds from the north.  We had 72 miles to make before dark.  it turned out to be a great crossing.  Big waves, but they were rollers, some definitely up to 10 ft.but spaced far enough apart that we rolled over them for the most part.

Photos never show the magnitude of waves!

With winds on the beam,  we were sailing good making 8- 9 kts for many hours.  As we hit the center of the Gulf Stream, we saw the swells at their greatest - but it was a comfortable and fast ride.  We made Bimini in under 10 hours.

New Year 2018

Dad and Aus!

We had our NYE celebrations in Bimini.  I had been here once before, but it was just an overnight stay.  After exploring the island a little more this time, I actually quite like it here.  The people are friendly and there are some good little bars.  We stayed at Bluewater Marina - at $1 per foot, definitely the best value.  Facility are basic but Bahamian-clean, the docks are in good shape (fixed) and the staff great.  Water is outrageous at $0.75 per gallon - so we are about to break out the water-maker.  For reference, we heard other marinas charge around $3/foot and up to $6/foot at the Hilton Resort World.

NYE was a fun time on the island.  We visited several bars - probably one too many, including the "End of the World Sand Bar". 

A good night was had by all from what I remember.Austin seemed to hit it off with the locals.

Beach at Hilton Resort World