Our Time in Cuba (Los Morros to Veradero)

Sorry to those that like short and sweet posts - this one is a long one!  We have just returned from Cuba and I did not have wifi in Cuba.  I was writing my posts and keeping it as a word file until I could upload it.  We are now in Tarpon Springs, FL and I just had a brief opportunity to upload.  So I have an hour or so to read over what I wrote, do a little editing, add photos and post this.  If you are reading this today (June 20), I am still a few days behind, but working on catching up!

Last drinks in the Soggy Pesso, Isla Mujeres

June 8-9

We left our slip at Isla Mujeres at around 12:30 pm to head out for Cuba.  This was our second attempt as we had turned back several days previously when the weather deteriorated.  At the time, we were not aware that this was the prelude to Tropical Storm Colin, which essentially formed close to over us on the Yucatan Peninsula (see previous post).  Thankfully Colin left without any marked impression on us or Isla, and very quickly transited – thankfully, and headed north up the east coast as it dissipated.  We did hear that it dumped a lot of rain on Cuba with ome pretty strong winds - so again, thankful we turned back on our first attempt.

Second attempt – this one looked better!  We left with forecast winds of 7 kts out of the SW.  We saw 7-15 and more out of the SE, but it was not a major issue.  We headed directly from Isla to Los Morros.  One of the guide books recommended motoring south to a point of Cozumel, then picking up the gulf stream.  I am not sure that would have been a better strategy – although the gulf stream made us crab to maintain our course, and it did at times give us a considerable kick forward (2-3 kts on average.).  We had a fairly smooth crossing but had to motor most of the way with the main up as we did not have a good enough wind direction to sail.  We also wanted to make this crossing in the minimum time – so a few gallons of diesel were not that important.  Although I don’t have data to support it, I get the feeling that “optimum conditions” for this crossing are rare, and typically one of the key factors is missing (i.e., light to moderate winds, wind not against current, low chance of storms, moderate wave height).  Based on my short-term observations, the west end of Cuba just seems to get slammed by anything coming up the gulf stream (winds, waves, storms etc.).

Our night crossing went well without any real issues other than high traffic in the Yucatan Channel – particularly on the east side, about 30 or so miles off Cuba.  At one point, we had 6 or more commercial ships within 10 miles or so of us, based on the AIS.  We elected to call two ships on the VHS to make sure they were aware of our position.  Both were very polite, one adjusted course to avoid us, and we adjusted for the other to ensure that we passed with at least 2 miles clearance.  At night, with rolling waves 2 miles looks real close, and a vigilant watch is essential.  We did find that the AIS lost contact on occasion – I am not sure if this is a function of my antenna location and height, the position of the antennae on the ships/boats, or a combination.  I suspect it’s a combination.  So while the AIS is a fantastic tool that I would not be without, I cannot stress the importance of a vigilant watch.

Arrival in Los Morros

We timed our arrival pretty well.  In the early hours of the morning we sported a flashing light.  Our waypoint was for the middle of the inshore traffic separation zone, and Brian thought this was a marker.  It turned out to an on-shore lighthouse Cabo de San Antonio – on the west tip of Cuba.  We turned north to avoid reefs and shoals before making our entry.  Daylight came at the right time and we were able to visually see the straightforward entry to Los Morros.  As a post-script note, we were using iNavX with Navionics charts as our primary navigation and the charts were very close to our actual observations on depths etc.

Los Morros was pretty much as anticipated, except that the topography in this area was very flat, with arid vegetation and mangroves.  Los Morros is a “forgotten little place”.  A dilapidated concrete dock, and sparse to very sparse facilities.  that's probably being polite!

It was flat calm so we tied up at the dock.  In anything but flat conditions, I would definitely anchor as there were various bits of rusted chain, rebar, and fittings protruding from the dock.  The official Guarda Fronterra arrived within 5 minutes and started the check-in procedure.  The dockmaster introduced himself and explained that he was dockmaster, chef, mechanic, hotelier, currency exchange etc. - a real nice, friendly guy.

The check-in procedure was straightforward and similar (but less automated) to what we had experienced in Hemingway in November.  First, a visit from the doctor, then the Guarda Fronterra took passports, then the agriculture and sanitation inspectors with their dog.  Some questions about our produce – where did we get it (Mexico was OK, but not the US), we were asked to show receipts for recent provisions, which fortunately we had kept.  without the receipts, I suspect we may have had to turn over a few items. 

They took a quick look in the top of the fridge, asked a few questions, gave us forms to sign, and we were done.  The whole process was about an hour.  We then had to go see the dockmaster to pay for visas and get our passports back.  Interestingly, the Visa fee has gone up since November – which we were told about in Isla.  As of June 2016, the fees were $80 US per person for the visa and $55 US for the boat cruising permit.  We were offered visas for $40 US in Isla, but there was some question about whether they would be accepted.  We elected not to chance it and to buy locally.

Payments were made to the dockmaster and our passports were returned.  Since he was also the chef, we asked about breakfast……….but they had not had water for some time, so no food.  Beer for breakfast – they had Bucanero and Crystal.  I asked for a Bucanero…..the dockmaster suggested Crystal, because the other was old and out of date!  I guess he was saving it for obnoxious guests!  which he told us he got on occasion.  

He was a really nice guy and very helpful  Between his English and  our collective small amount of Spanish we were able to communicate quite well.  His name is Clauver Luis Cruz, and he told us he works 7 days on and 7 off.  When on duty he is on 24 hours/day and at the end of his 7 days, he travels 120 km to his family by bus.

Pier at Los Morros

After clearance, we had a quick breakfast.  Before we left, the dockmaster arrived with a bucket and asked if we could spare a gallon of water.  We gave him that and a baseball cap – which he really seemed to appreciate.  We exchanged email and phone numbers before leaving.  Apparently he has to go to town to get email – one of 3 locations in the entire Province.

We set sail, generally north-east in search of an anchorage for the night.  We decided upon Caya Zapata or Ensenada de San Francisco. We made the anchorage by about 6:30pm, just before sunset and in time for us to anchor in daylight.

Anchored at Cayo Zapata

 

Cayo Zapata - nothing but Mangroves!....and bugs!

We were back in the mangroves – a beautiful spot with nobody around.  We took a dinghy ride to explore a little but then decided it was “bug:30” and we needed to get back before sundown.  We cooked fresh tuna – Patrick’s catch on the grill and had rice and vegetables with it.  As the sun set, thee bugs arrived.  A quick pack-up and get inside to avoid being eaten alive.  Other than the bugs, it was a superb anchorage, with good holding in the marl/mud/sand.  We slept well, other than the heat.  We opened up the hatches with screens, but airflow was not great.

June 10-11

The next morning we set sail for our next destination.  We had decided to visit Cayo Levisa.  A small Cay on the reef just off the mainland that has a Cuban-run resort and anchorage.  A day sail got us there.  With light winds, it was a combination of sailing and motor-sailing.  Winds were light, but we did run into a rain storm towards the end of this leg.  It was short-lived – maybe 15 minutes, but hopefully enough to get some salt off the decks.

Midnight sun II at anchor - Cayo Levisa

We arrived in the anchorage.  We had bought a Cuba cruising Guide from an English couple we met in Isla.  Thank goodness we did as the information on the way in and the location of the anchorage was invaluable.  The electronic charts were definitely off by a few hundred feet.  We got into less than 5 ft of water, but somehow didn’t ground……….but we did stir up some mud (we are 4 ft. 11 in draft).  The first attempt at anchoring was unsuccessful - the hook was just not catching.  With some hand signals from the onshore local mariners, we got to a better spot (the charts showed 3 ft), and the anchor caught good.  We were set for the night, anchored in 10-12 ft of water.

When we went ashore, we were told we needed to check in with the Guarda Fronterra, but since it was late, our crew was allowed to use the resort facilities and we could check in the following morning…We checked out the amazing beach, partook in the buffet dinner (not bad – and cheap at 10 CUC each ($10.15).  Then we sat and watched an amazing lightening display

Patrick, Tanner, Brian and Neil - beach at Caya Levisa

over the Straights of Florida.  We were thankful that we were not out there in it!.  We met a real nice couple at the bar – Paula and Germaine.  Paula was on assignment in Havana at the Swiss embassy.  Her husband Germaine was a “computer guy”, but told us he was not permitted to work while in Cuba.  They had escaped from Havana for a long weekend to Cayo Levisa, because it was so layed back and non-touristy.  We agreed – it was certainly that.  The food was OK, the bar was cheap, staff friendly, and the sea and beach were excellent.  And it was really cheap – no cost to anchor and use the facilities, with cheap bar prices.  Food in Cuba – well, its not gourmet, its borderline fresh, and generally served with not much flair.  At least that had been our experience so far.

Beach - looking SW

Beach walk (NE end)

The next day was a day of relaxation.  Patrick, Brian and Tanner went on a snorkeling excursion, while we decided on a beach day.   We explored along the beach to the NE of the resort area walking a couple of miles.  At the end of the beach was a deserted beach with a few beach chairs and an abandoned beach bar.  I am not sure if this was an area of the resort that had been lost in a storm or if it was simply dis-used.  I suspect that a storm had claimed it at some point and it had not been re-built.  Either way, it made for a “Robinson Caruso” moment.  We spent the remainder of the day relaxing, swimming in the ocean, then cooking our Mexican burgers on the boat’s grill (not the best burgers!)

Abandoned Beach Bar - NE end Cayo Levisa

The following morning we made ready to leave, headed for Marina Hemmingway, just west of Havana.  First we had to check out with the Guarda Frontera who had promised to be here on the 8 am ferry.  It actually arrived at about 8:30am, but he was onboard, as promised. 

Check-out seemed a confused process.  The Guard was trying to communicate something to us about a couple of anchorages between us and Hemingway.  He seemed to think we would not make it to Hemingway before dark and at one point he said Hemingway was closed.  Hmm, what did he mean.  This was a bit worrying.  He would not hand over our papers until he made us understand - in a very nice and polite way.  He was not for letting up on the conversation, until the ferry started to leave - honking his horn at us as the captain knew the Guard wanted to be on it.

Then suddenly, our papers were found, signed and returned to us with a handshake and a smile. Tanner's first dinghy captain experience was to transfer the Guard from our boat to the moving ferry. He did a fine job!

Ocean meets Sky NE end Cayo Levisa

While we were on the dock at Levisa, the dive boat operator had a conversation with us, offering to be our “practica” – we figured out this was a pilot.  He said the coral was tricky, and offered to pilot us for 50 CUC.  I had read the guide book and it said the pass to the NE was pretty straightforward except care was needed in crossing the reef.  Since it was a flat calm day with good visibility, I declined his offer.  We made the passage out without difficulty, staying in 15 ft. or more of water.  I think we did see a couple of 8 ft. spots but only very briefly.  We saw a couple of coral heads but they were at depth, for the most part, the bottom was sandy or grass. The water was like glass and merged with the horizon.  I don't think photos do it justice, but we did try taking a few to capture this rare moment at sea.

So it was off to Hemingway!  Our conversation with the Guarda had left is with a couple of doubts – could Hemingway be closed?  What were our options if it was?  The anchorages that the Guarda mentioned were not that great according to the guide book and one was a military area – but he said we could anchor only to sleep there.  The northern coast of Cuba has no real shelter once you get close to Hemingway.  When we got within about 25 miles, we tried Hemingway Marina on the VHF, but no answer.  We had cell service only on the boat phone (which has an “One-Sim” card for international use), but there was no answer from the number we had for the marina.  After trying a couple of numbers that we had, we were given other numbers by whoever answered (maybe the bar) – none seemed to work or be answered by the dockmaster. 

Our friend Larry that was giving us land-based US support via deLorme, provide us with yet another number (obtained from Active Captain) – that was finally answered by the dockmaster.  “The marina is full until June 20 – a fishing tournament”……crap.  “Can we come in and stay one night, or at least get diesel?” …….”not possible, no…maybe you can come in tomorrow morning for diesel, call me in the morning”.  OK, now the Guarda’s attempt to tell us about this made sense.  Essentially, Hemingway was closed.

Decision time – now what?  We had passed the anchorages the Guarda mentioned and they didn’t sound that appealing anyway.  We passed Mariel  - really not an option, described as very industrialized, power plant, cement factory (with lots of dust fall-out), and no yacht been in there for over 12 years.  Interestingly, this was also a port where there was a mass exodus of Cubans in 1980 to the USA.

I floated two options to the crew – both involved sailing overnight: (i) turn north, make our crossing back to Key West (110 miles); or (ii) continue on to Veradero, Cuba (about 70 miles further along the coast from Hemingway).  It was unanimous – Veradero, we were not ready to give up on Cuba just yet.  We sailed past the entrance to Hemingway and could see masts in the marina, soon after, we were passing the coastline of Havana.  It is an extensive city, bigger than I had imagined before I had been here last November.  I would say it is akin to Miami in size.  We saw the skyline from a couple of miles offshore and were able to make out a number of areas and buildings, especially the Russian embassy, which stands out like a giant “transformer character”, looking out towards Key West.  To the east of Havana lies Havana harbor – there was a fair amount of traffic in this area and we were amazed at the oil or gas bur-off flares from the numerous refineries east of Havana.  We followed the coastline 2-5 miles offshore.  The coast east of Havana was pretty heavily populated in contrast to the coastline west of Havana.  We also saw a great number of small (12-15 ft) fishing boats – some with no lights, others with a handheld spotlight or flashlight.   At one point, just after sunset, we saw 3 objects in the water, 2-3 miles offshore. Swimmers?  No boat anywhere in sight, no markers, no buoyancy aids.  We later learned they were often brought out by the small boats and dropped off to dive for lobster – then they swim ashore with their catch.  Our understanding is that this is illegal in Cuba, as anything caught by the fishermen has to be sold in the government run market – this was “black-market” lobster fishing, either to sell or to feed the family.

June 13-15

We made Veradero at about 8:30 am and pulled in to Marina Darsena. Long story short, we had called to see if they had space and were told yes, but when we got there, we were told that “you have to stay at least 15 days”.  Not going to happen!  A pretty female Guarda Fronterra arrived and she spoke better English – although she was pre-occupied with her make-up getting wet in the rain shower.  She explained that this was a long-term marina only and we would have to go to Marina Gaviota (about 20 miles further) if we only wanted to stay a couple of days.  But we now had to check-in and out before we could leave!  This time it was a quick process – we were on our way in about 30 minutes.

Entrance to Marina Gaviota

Arriving at Marina Gaviota was interesting.  We called on VHF – yes, plenty of space.  On the way in down the long channel (canal de Buba) we saw a Cuban Navy boat moored to a channel marker blocking 2/3 of the channel.  We navigated around him carefully. 

Binoculars were on us, and one guy manned the machine gun in the bow.  Nice welcome!  As we passed within 100 ft., we smiled and waved, but no response – just the binoculars piercing us.  Well, they didn’t stop us, so we continued onwards.  We were within a couple of miles of the marina now, and they were hailing us on VHF – but they were not hearing our reply.  We had heard similar situation with a couple of other boats that were ahead of us – first they talked to the marina, then their transmissions were broken up.  I am convinced the Cuban Navy were blocking our transmission – we were in sight of the marina and they could not hear us.  We tried several VHFs, including handhelds – same thing.  A mile out and we got a visit from another Cuban Navy vessel.  He came along side us just off our stern and shadowed us for 10 minutes or so.  Again, binoculars were on us.  No communication, then he turned off and left.  A few minutes later, we were able to contact the marina, and were given approach instructions. 

Marina Gaviota by night
(note fleet of 20 80 ft Cats used for day excursions)

We made it in without issue and were directed to the check-in area to await a slip assignment.  We waited there for 1-2 hours with visits from the dockmaster and Guarda.  Eventually, we were given a slip assignment “over the other side of the marina, by the Condoms” [which turned out to be condominiums].  It was Med-style mooring.  Oh what a fun way to end the day!, but with little wind and plenty of space, it was not too much of an issue.  We were told that local by-laws required Med mooring……very strange in an almost empty marina with space for 1,200 boats (yes, that’s not a typo!).  Marina Gaviota is a top notch facility, opened just a couple of years ago.  Not only was the marina quiet, but so were the condoms!  We were ready for a swim, and the beautiful pool was very inviting after an overnight sail.

Med-style mooring, Marina Gaviota

The facilities were excellent, the staff very friendly, and the security was active and obvious. We were given day passes to use the facilities.  Other guests had wrist bands and if the security personnel spotted you without a wrist band, they politely asked what you were doing.  the resorts are "all-inclusive" - free drinks, meals etc., so that was the main reason for the security.  there is a collection of restaurants available around the marina - some are for the all-inclusive guests only, and others allow cash-paying guests.  We tried a couple of these and they were "Cuban good" - meaning good, but don't use a US-scale, eat local dishes (don't expect good steak) and expect things to be a bit different than the menu describes.

Swimming Pool - Marina Gaviota

We stayed in Veradero, Marina Gaviota for two nights.  On our second day, we made a trip to Havana (see next post).  Havana is a two-hour car drive from Veradero.........but interesting.  Stay tuned, I am still writing about it!